On the farm

It is 11:30 at night and Lucas and I are perched high on a granite face overlooking a large valley. There is a full chorus of frogs, crickets, owls, and sheep bells all competing with one another. I think the crickets are actually winning. The light from the half moon is white and bright leaving shadows everywhere. There are three patches of lights way off in the distance from the only three small towns in the area. They seem a world away. We are deep in the heart of central Sardegna where the sheparding culture has thrived for centuries. 

It was a long, hot drive here of unrelentless twisty roads. When we told locals we were headed to a farm in the hills above Nuoro, they asked "But why?"

Indeed most visitors flock to the coast largely ignoring the interior. As we drove deeper and deeper inland I began to question our motives too. We added an hour and a half of extra curves by following our GPS. By the time we got out of the car, we all had wobbly knees. 

But the reward was sweet. We drove 5 kilometers down the farm's  driveway through a thick grove of cork trees - the bark stripped from them only recently. Some were in the long process of growing their bark back. Apparently it takes 12 years for it to fully return.

Brad and I considered a lot of different farmhouses (known as agriturismi) for this leg of the journey. We were after something authentic which is exactly what we got:  a fourth generation working farm of 300 hectares. We were greeted by the fourth generation - Matteo - who helps run the farm along with his father. 

The farm was so well preserved. It seems they recognized the value of its history long ago. One of the eating halls - not pictured - was converted from a cow barn with the old troughs still in place. 

We were most excited to encounter the animals. This sheep dog named Pastorella was one of the first we met. 

The various piles of granite rocks have quickly become our playground. It feels so good to finally have space after city life and busy beaches. We are actually the only guests at the farm so this creates even more of a sense of freedom. 

Earlier today, we went on a walk around the farm.  It took us down to the pastures where we first met the pigs. 

We fed them some corn from a feed bin and they instantly attached themselves to us. Chasing after us along the fence line, snorting away in hopes of getting more treats. 

We took several breaks from the hot sun under the various magnificent cork trees. Lucas put his newly purchased Sardinian shepard knife to work and attempted to carve some cork out. 

We later came across a pack of wild donkeys who would not let us get near them for the life of them. But they were curious creatures with their big ears pitched squarely forward watching our every move. Can you find one in the picture below?

 Sardegna is home to 1.7 million people -two times less the number of sheep. Not long ago, Shepards would stay with their flock for months at a time. Deep in the high country. Below is a typical Shepard hut that was on the farm. It had an area inside of it for cheese making. 

The farm we are on has 500 head of sheep with two Shepards in charge. You can hear their sheep bells throughout the day as they move from pasture to pasture.  For the first part of the day we could only hear them but not find them in the hills.  I met the Shepards and they brought us to them during one of their pasture rotations.  It was a real thrill. 

These days the Shepards use cell phones and 4 wheel drive vehicles but I don't imagine too much else has changed. The sheep had recently been sheared and they explained the huge shearing party they have with about 50 friends and family. It sounds like quite the event. Lots of wine!

I can't begin to describe the food - all from the animals and sheep milk that they get everyday. They had an incredible variety if meats at dinner and for the first time the kids were adventurous in their eating, wanting to please Matteo who dined with us both nights. The yogurt in the morning from the sheep milk is so delicate and sweetened by the honey harvested from their hives. Nadia has fallen in love with the homemade riccotta. Even Elliot can't resist the flavorful salami. 

This has been one of the richest experiences we have had so far. Matteo is a kind host who patiently answers all of our questions. I am grateful we got to see a glimpse of the old Sardegna - what a priceless counterpoint to the postcard shops and overflowing beaches. I think this experience will stay firm in our hearts forever. 

Ciao and Baci

Nancy.